Butchery & Sausage-Making For Dummies®

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Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication

Harrison, Tia

          Butchery & sausage-making for dummies / Tia Harrison.

Includes index.

Issued also in electronic format.

ISBN 978-1-118-37494-8

          1. Meat cutting.  2. Sausages.  3. Cooking (Sausages).

4. Meat—Preservation.  I. Title.

TS1962.H37 2012                 664’.902               C2012-902751-0

978-1-118-38743-6 (ebk); 978-1-118-38744-3 (ebk); 978-1-118-38745-0 (ebk)

Printed in the United States

1 2 3 4 5 RRD 17 16 15 14 13

About the Author

Tia Harrison is co-founder of the Butcher’s Guild; executive chef and co-owner of Sociale, a northern-Italian–inspired restaurant; and co-owner of Avedano’s Holly Park Market, a neighborhood butcher shop that focuses on whole-animal butchery.

Since 2003, Tia has been Sociale’s executive chef, where she has worked to expand her expertise as a food professional in San Francisco. Located in the Presidio Heights district of San Francisco, Sociale has been an integral part of the “farm to table” approach to dining in the Bay Area and proudly serves only the best in locally grown produce, sustainably farmed meats, and wild-caught seafood.

In 2007, Tia Harrison opened Avedano’s Holly Park Market, the first women-owned and women-run butcher shop in the United States. Inspired to revive the dying art of butchering by hand and to support small farms and sustainable food systems, Avedano’s and its owners are leaders in the butcher’s revolution, focusing on educating others in the art of butchering and supporting consumers, local farmers, and the community in all things that are meaty and delicious. Tia Harrison is focused on education, community building, and good food.

Tia, along with her friend and business partner Marissa Guggiana, founded the Butcher’s Guild in 2010. The Guild, a fraternity of meat professionals bound to creating a support system for the butchery industry, focuses on education and camaraderie to achieve a communal goal: a network of successful, skilled, independent butchers all across the country. 

Dedication

For Dacia. You are the light of my life.

Author’s Acknowledgments

To butchers, chefs, salumists: You inspire me. The meat industry has given me so much. A big, huge “thank you” to all the passionate people who work to support the craft of butchery. Thank you to all the members of the Butcher’s Guild. Your friendship and support mean so much to me. I am truly honored to know all of you. Thank you to Marshka Kiera for literally rocking our world and being such a kind, wonderful, and helpful friend to the Guild.

To my family: Ellice, Matt, Nya, Rocco, Ben, Carly, Gary, Marianne, Nathaniel, Travis, Caitlin, Ellen, Paul, Flora. All of you have helped me in my career. Thank you for always listening to my wild, crazy, entrepreneurial schemes (and pretending to be excited). I appreciate all your love and support. To BB, ily so much; thank you.

To all of the inspiring people who have contributed to and helped me with this book: Christopher Arentz, David Budworth, Bryan Butler, Craig Deihl, Mark DeNittis, Josh Donald, Brad Farmerie, Marissa Guggiana, Peter Hertzmann, Matthew Jennings, Josh Martin, Julio Mis, Pepe, Stephen Pocock, Berlin Reed, Gregg Rentfrow, Adam Tiberio, Kari Underly, Sarah Weiner, and Oscar Yedra.

Extra special thanks go to Adam Tiberio, Bryan Butler, and Julio Mis. Adam, thanks for sharing your knowledge, skills, and passion with me; for the advice and information you’ve provided; and for being an educator. Bryan, thank you for your help with this project; your feedback and support have been huge. Julio, thank you for always being on my team, no matter how much I ask for. Working with you is such a comfort to me. Thank you for all of your help with this book. You have done so much.

To my dear, dear friend and business partner, Marissa Guggiana. You hold a very special (almost creepy, perhaps stalker-y) place in my heart. You inspire me and give me the confidence to do impossible things. Your help during this experience was immeasurable. I truly could not have done it without you.

To David Nichol, you are a great friend and business partner. Thank you for understanding me and always letting me follow my dreams. Sociale is where my heart is.

To Angela Wilson and Melanie Eisemann: Thank you for believing in me, always being there for me, and for being such good friends and good people. You have both inspired me.

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Butchery & Sausage-Making For Dummies®

Visit www.dummies.com/cheatsheet/butcherysausagemaking to view this book's cheat sheet.

Table of Contents

Introduction

About This Book

Conventions Used in This Book

What You’re Not to Read

Foolish Assumptions

How This Book Is Organized

Part I: Time to Meet Your Meat!

Part II: Poultry, Rabbit, and Lamb Butchery

Part III: Pork Butchery

Part IV: Beef Butchery

Part V: Sausage-Making and Using the Whole Animal

Part VI: The Part of Tens

Icons Used in This Book

Where to Go from Here

Part I: Time to Meet Your Meat!

Chapter 1: The Butchery Room

Understanding the Importance of Ye Ol’ Butcher Shoppe

Identifying what butchers do

Patronizing your local shop

Assuming the Role of Butcher in Your Own Home

Knowledge and equipment you need

The benefits of butchering your own meat

Preserving Traditions: Sausage-Making and Other Preservation Methods

Making sausage

Other preservation techniques

Promoting Healthy Food Systems

Chapter 2: Meat Is Meat, Right? Wrong!

Knowing What You’re Getting

You say “tomato”; I say “porcupine” — Playing the name game

Think cooking instead of cutting

Deciphering labels

Focusing on Flavor

The amount and kind of fat

The age of the animal

The meat’s grade

Whether the meat is dry or wet aged

Ensuring you get the best flavor

Broadening Your Definition of “Good”

Chapter 3: Cuts and Terminology: The Basics of Butchery

Breaking It Down the Easy Way: Meat Maps

Making Heads or Tails of Butchery Terminology

Keeping track of body parts and positions

Understanding cut terminology

Breaking news: Bench (or table) or hanging

Sourcing the Freshest Cuts from the Supplier or Meat Counter

Finding a reputable supplier

Judging freshness at the meat counter

Identifying standard and specialty cuts

Substituting Cuts in Recipe Planning

Braising, slow cooking cuts

Grilling or quick-searing cuts

Roasting cuts

Chapter 4: Basic Knife Skills, Tools, and Techniques

Knives, Mallets, and More: Gathering Your Butchery Tools

The essential cutting implements

Other necessary items

Useful but nonessential items

Making Confident and Fluid Cuts: Basic Grips and Posture

Get a grip! Holding your knife properly

Maintaining good posture

Special Techniques Every Butcher Should Know

Denuding

Cutting steaks

Frenching

Butterflying

Cubing meats for braising

Being Safe While Using Sharp, Pointy Metal Tools

Part II: Poultry, Rabbit, and Lamb Butchery

Chapter 5: Duck, Duck, Goose, Chickens: Starting with Poultry

A Word about Cutting Up Birds

Getting familiar with poultry musculature

Basic chicken-butchering tools and techniques

Pieces of Eight: Cutting Up a Fryer

Removing the head and feet

Removing the wings

Removing the legs

Cutting out the spine

Splitting the breast

Dividing the legs into two pieces

Finishing up

Cutting the Chicken into Five Equal Portions

Freeing the oysters

Removing the legs and spine

Sectioning the wing portions

Making Boneless, Skinless Chicken Pieces

Removing the skin

Cutting up the skinned chicken

Deboning the breast

Deboning the thigh and drumsticks

Impressing Your Neighbors: Boneless Chicken Halves

Chapter 6: What’s Up, Doc? Rascally Rabbits!

Cutting Up Fryers and Roasters

Removing the offal and silver skin

Removing the back legs

Removing the front legs

Cutting through the ribs

Removing the pelvis

Sectioning the saddle

Portioning the loin

Finishing up the rack

Deboning the Rabbit

Removing the rib cage

Cutting out the skeleton

Removing the leg bones

Removing the arm bones

Chapter 7: Baaaaack to Basics: Lamb and Goat Butchery

Getting to Know Your Little Bovids

The lowdown on lamb

Getting (to know) your goat

Covering Lamb and Goat Butchery Basics

On the bench or on the hook?

The cuts

Dealing with the Neck/Shoulder

Slicing the Skirt Free

Removing the Flank

Two Tasks in One: Removing the Breast and Foreshank

Removing the foreshank

Removing the breast

Removing the Hindshanks

Using a saw to remove the hindshank

Using a boning knife to remove the hindshank

Removing the Shoulder

The Leg

Removing the legs from the loin

Sawing the legs in two

Working with the Rib

Separating the rib from the loin

Chining the rib

Cutting Denver ribs

Portioning the rib chops

The Loin

Part III: Pork Butchery

Chapter 8: Porky Pig: Understanding the Beast

Pork and Pigs: Getting to Know the Beast

Pork production

Weighty matters: Making sense of pork poundage

Pork’s USDA identification categories

Fundamentals of Pork Butchery

Inspecting the carcass

Paying attention to safety issues

Getting Familiar with Pig Primals, Subprimals, and Retail Cuts

First and second cuts: Primals and subprimals

The retail cuts

Chapter 9: Pork: Cutting It Up

A Bit of Advice before You Begin

Removing the Head

Removing the Front Trotters (Feet)

Removing the trotters with your boning knife

Removing the trotters by sawing

Removing the Foreshanks

Splitting the Breast-plate

Dealing with the Shoulders

Removing the shoulders

Splitting the shoulders in two

Trim work: Cleaning up the shoulder

Removing the Hind Trotters

Sectioning the Legs from the Loin

Freeing the legs from the belly

Separating the loin from the legs

Sawing the legs in two

Removing the Pork Skirt Steaks

Cutting the Belly from the Loin

Chapter 10: Moving into Pork Subprimals

From the Shoulder: The Boston Butt and Pork Shoulder (Picnic)

Separating the Boston butt from the picnic

Making retails cuts from the picnic

Producing Retails Cuts from the Loin

Cutting center loin chops

Boneless loin roast and chops

Baby back ribs

Removing the tenderloin

Porterhouse or T-bone steaks

Getting Great Cuts from the Leg (or Ham)

Spareribs from the Pork Belly

Trimming Meat for Grind

Part IV: Beef Butchery

Chapter 11: What’s Your Beef? Understanding the Cuts

The Lowdown on Beef Butchery

Muscles matter! Paying attention to beef musculature

Maximizing flavor and tenderness

Playing it safe

Dividing Up the Task: Primals, Subprimals, and Retail Cuts

Forequarter and hindquarter primals and subprimals

The retail cuts

Chapter 12: Beef: The Forequarter

Breaking the Forequarter: The Basics

Fashioning a hook and rail

Cutting on the rail

Removing the Outside Skirt (Rail)

Separating Out the Chuck, Arm, and Brisket from the Plate and Rib (Rail)

Step 1: Marking the chuck and rib

Step 2: Separating the rib from the chuck

Step 3: Scoring the brisket

Step 4: Removing the arm from the chuck

Step 5: Removing the brisket

Step 6: Removing the neck meat and atlas joint

Step 7: Removing the flat iron

Step 8: Removing the chuck

Squaring Up the Chuck Short Ribs (Rail)

Sectioning the Rib from the Plate (Rail)

Trimming the Brisket (Bench)

Trimming the Flat Iron (Bench)

Removing the Foreshank (Bench)

Cutting the foreshank from the arm

Osso bucco

The Arm/Shoulder Clod (Bench)

Removing the arm bone

Extracting the petite filet

Preparing a cross rib roast

Tying the arm roast

The Rib and Bone-in Ribeye Steaks (Bench)

Cutting bone-in rib eyes

Frenching the bone-in rib eye

Chuck Short Ribs (Bench)

Fabricating the chuck roll

Seaming out the mock tender

Removing the neck and spine

The last stages of the chuck

On the Bench: The Plate

Removing the inside skirt

Cutting the short ribs

Cleaning the breastbones

Chapter 13: Beef: The Hindquarter

Breaking the Hindquarter: The Basics

Removing the Elephant Ear (Rail)

Pulling the Cod Fat (Rail)

Dealing with the Flank

Removing the flank (rail)

Freeing the flank steak (bench)

Pulling the Tri-Tip (Rail)

Removing the Full Loin (Rail)

Removing and Portioning the Round (Rail)

Removing the knuckle from the round

Cutting the top sirloin free from the round

Removing the gooseneck (bottom round)

Cutting the Full Loin Down (Bench)

Removing the flank from the full loin

Seaming out the inside skirt

Seaming out the bottom sirloin flap (bavette steak)

Cutting the Tri-Tip Free (Bench)

Separating the Short Loin from the Sirloin (Bench)

Taking Care of the Top Sirloin (Bench)

Removing the head filet

Deboning the top sirloin

Cutting Steaks from the Short Loin (Bench)

Cutting bone-in steaks

Frenching the bone-in steaks

Producing Osso Bucco from the Hindshank (Bench)

Part V: Sausage-Making and Using the Whole Animal

Chapter 14: Setting Yourself Up for Sausage

Gathering the Right Equipment

Thinking about your sausage-making needs

Choosing a grinder

Looking at mixers

Have stuffer, will sausage

Other essentials

A word about casings

Picking from a Plethora of Sausages

Common sausage flavor combos

Types of sausages

Chapter 15: Sausage-Making Techniques

Getting in Touch with Your Inner Nerd: Sausage Science

Using quality ingredients

Getting the right amount of moisture

Achieving the right texture

Ensuring a good bind

Using the proper technique

Fermented sausages and guarding against botulism

Making Sausage: The Basic Steps

Gathering your ingredients

Preparing the meat for grinding

Chilling the meat before grinding and mixing

Grinding and mixing your sausage

Stuffing the sausage into the casing

Tying the knot: Linking and drying sausages

Hanging your links to dry

Storing Your Sausage

Chapter 16: Scrumptious Sausage Recipes

Chicken and Rabbit Sausage

Beef Sausage

Pork Sausage

Lamb and Goat Sausage

Chapter 17: Processing Techniques: The Good Kind

Whole-Muscle Curing

Following the general process

Identifying the equipment you need

Ensuring safe curing practices

Time for the cure

Smoke ’Em If You Got ’Em

Gathering (or building) your equipment

Choosing your wood chips

Smoking tips

Making bacon

From Scraps to Elegant Dining: Pâté, Terrines, and More

Making a meat paste: Pâtés

Creating scrumptious layers: Terrines

Upping the elegance factor: Galantines

Stocks and Sauces: It’s All Gravy, Baby

The secrets to a solid stock

Whipping up a hearty sauce

Praise the Lard, Save the Fats

Part VI: The Part of Tens

Chapter 18: Top Ten Mistakes to Avoid When Butchering

Keeping a Messy Workspace

Letting Your Meat Get Warm

Not Following the Separation of Time or Space Rule

Not Watching Your Posture

Improperly Storing Your Meat

Letting Your Knives Get Dull

Wasting Perfectly Useful Scrap

Rushing through the Process

Being Careless or Distracted

Being Fearful

Chapter 19: Top Ten Grilling Cuts

Chicken — The Whole Thing, Every Last Part

Ribs, Any Kind

Hamburgers, That Glorious Staple

Show Me Some Leg, Lamb

Flat Steaks and Their Three-Dimensional Flavor

Pork Chops — Brine and Shine

Flat Iron, a Butchers’ Discovery

Lamb Saratoga, a Treasure Seeker’s Prize

Strip Steak, America’s Sweetheart

The Rib Eye — There, I’ve Said It

Chapter 20: Ten Sssshhhhausage-Making Secrets

Keep It Cool

Keep It Clean

Keep Notes

Grind It Right

Get in the Mix

Test the Texture and Taste

Hone Your Stuffing Technique

Practice Linking Tricks

Store the Sausage Properly

Use Quality Seasonings

Cheat Sheet

Introduction

Sixty years ago, the work of butchers seemed a lot less mysterious. Iremember going to a butcher shop in Alameda, California, with my grandmother when I was very young. While my grandma shopped for dinner, the butcher’s long arm reached over the counter and handed me a slice of paper-thin, house-made bologna. I remember thoroughly enjoying the meat snack, even though I thought I didn’t like bologna. It was the gesture that made it taste so great, and even at the time, it seemed to me a very sweet and special outing.

I still love butchery. As a chef, learning to butcher was just a part of the natural progression of my craft. I wanted to know more about the meat I was serving in my restaurant; I knew how to sear a steak or braise a short rib, but what I really wanted to know how was how to cut it. I have so much respect for butchers. When we opened Avedano’s in 2007, making the transition from chef to butcher was an eye-opener to say the least. I thought it would be a lot easier than it was. I had a lot to learn. I have been fortunate enough in my career to know many great, talented people (many of whom have contributed to this book) that have shared their meat expertise and knowledge with me. We need butchers, we need their skill, we need their perspective, and we need to support them to make sure that they stick around. They are a very important part of a healthy, local food system. I raise my knife to them, their heritage, and their craft.

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!